Can't wait!

When browsing the internet I pumped into this old video by Slackjaw on b3bouldering site. Think it's one of the best climbing videos ever made. Quite keen to start training on our board. Though it's not time for that just yet.

Motivation.

Web seems to be full of training advice at the moment. So mine would be to have fun and enjoy the process what ever you decide to do. Included a short clip of Ila working with 'Marvin'. No send though. Think Ila just got bored of trying same move over and over again and didn't go back to finish it of. Sorry about the quality. It was dark and wet when we filmed this.


Marvin 8A. from Marko Kauko on Vimeo.

First snow

We got first snow last night. Might be the end of a season. No plans for the winter. Maybe edit some old footage for web?


Doris having a scroll on the beach.

Marvin and a moving crux.

Sami on a second move of 'Marvin' which feels piss compared to the first one. What has happened? The first move used to feel easy. Talking about the original sequence of course. The way Jyrki did it, he skipped small left had crimp all together and went for a better hold higher up. I used small crimp as intermediate. Still keen to do original way someday.


What has happened to our lovely running track?

Most of the wood have been chopped down.

guess they are making plywood...

Viva la Resistance!

Still out n' about! Todays venue was Mäyris. The boulders where a bit damp but nothing that a little chalk and a brush couldn't fix. Todays mission was 'Viva la Resistance' and 'Uniikki'. Both of them über classics. 'Viva la Resistance' has quite a bad landing but still ok with few pads. The top move is cool. At least the way I did it.

Juho got painfully close on a flash attempt on 'Viva la Resistance'. No cigar.

Tuomo showed some good skills by sending 'Uniikki' with few tries.


Juho got painfully close too...

So many projects...

So many projects so little time before winter comes. Yesterday me and Jussi tried the ramp project at Toivakka. It's quite similar looking as Tim Clifford's 'Park life' in Yosemite which is featured in Dosage 5. We had no success. We also tried one other project which is very cool. We found some moves, but it will be extremely hard. Perfect technical and powerful climbing. No avail on that one either...

Today was time to go check one new area with Juho. All I managed to do was to get two bleeding finger tips. On one go I got over the crux move but decided to skip all the intermediates and go for the jug. Didn't work...


At least Juho put his free time in to good use and did 'Syyshämärä stand' with both ways. Hooray!

28.7

A day out at 28.7. What a horrendous approach! Landowner has chopped all small wood and left it rotten. The trail is in unusable state. Hope somebody cleans it. Otherwise it's just waist of perfectly good firewood.


There was a lot of water too. If somebody is planning to do 'Kuhanjulma' it's best to leave it for spring and go when the pond is frozen...


Still nice to climb here every once in a while. Actually managed to do something which I had not done before. 'Dementia' photo by Kirsi Kauko.

Beasts from the east.

Beasts from the east came for a quick visit yesterday. Sami looked super strong on 'Marvin'. Second move which is a crux for most of us looked like piss for him. Sure he will do it soon. Though it looks like the season is about to end soon. Hope not.

Paavo had bit of a moment with 'Forte'. Hope he didn't knacker his finger too badly. It was quite cold for such a long problem. At least I almost fell from the top while doing it for the video. I got bit of a cold pumped. Scary...


As a consolation prise Paavo send 'Herkules' with a good style.

Here taking a nice fall from the jug while left hand suddenly popped of...

Dr G.

On one of his last days as a local climber in Jyväskylä Tomi decided leave his mark and brake the hold of 'Paskoja kompiaisia'. Hope he doesn't brake too many holds at Oulu since that would be disastrous...   

Africa slab.

'Africa slab' a cool Font style slab. Maybe 7a? Feels harder for me but easier for Kirsi...

Training 4 Font.

Lasse doing F.A before going to Font for 6 months...

Nice high problem with good moves. Name is 'Ilaskivi'.

Make working out the sequence.

News flash!

Jyrki the photographer (here taking a imaginary photograph) send the old Keljo project which now carries the name 'Hamsteri' 8a! Good effort! 

Shigading!

Blood, sweat and screaming. Ila send 'Forte'! Liimatainen was not too far to follow.

Projecting.

Kikka working on 'Varjoneuvosto'.

Päivikki was so close to send 'Africa slab'!

Mika and reflector... 

Varjoneuvosto.

Small but cool problem. 

Green valley.

Jyrki sending 'Täyspakkaus' 7b+ F.A.

Rain rain rain...

Went to shoot some pictures for a new web site that will open soon.


First stop was Ticino. It started raining... (Brione)


And it lasted for six days in a row. (Magic Wood)


We went to see if Italy would be better.


It was for a while. (Val Massino)


Until it started raining... (Val Di Mello)


We got lucky in Zillertal! Weather was fine. Though road tolls were expensive... (O-P 'Briscila' Zillergrund)


So we headed back to Magic Wood. But not much time left... (O-P 'Marihuana corner')


Heidelberg, Germany.

Back home now with a lot of photo editing to do...

Quick stop at Keuruu today. Did right side start to 'Vakiopaine'. Maybe a plus harder than 'Vakiopaine'. Name 'Sisäpiiri'... (Photo by Kirsi Kauko)

Lofoten.

Shoreline of Henningsvaer.


Echinoidea.


Girls.


Wind was quite hard at times.


Kikka flashing Coctail.


Klatre kafe.


Mika doing 'Presten roof'


Mika sending 'Slartibartfast'.


Mika's climbing face...


Mika working with 'Tare Baby'


Clouds rolling over.


Jyrki having a moment with 'Midnight Sun'


Vast sea.


Kalle stranda.


Kalle Stranda.


And Ila set...

Working with 'Monster'


Monster.


Monster.


Sending 'Moon Problem' at Presten boulders.


And 'Presten Roof'.


Working with new project...


Mainland at the horizon.


Doris the fjällräven.


Doris and Vågakallen.


Font circuit at Paradiset...