Off Season

Like it love it? Or just hate it?

Have to say that I have enjoyed climbing quite a bit these past few warm and humid weeks. Off season climbing can be fun if you don't stress too much about it. I've been having some nice sessions with friends in Jyväskylä and Helsinki. Especially super humid session in Myllis was cool! Just did a lot of easier stuff but had to fight for every single one of them. So cool! Seems that every time I go to Myllis it's either too warm or wet. Now it was both!

Btw. Should off season be called wedding season instead?

Once again congratulations to our dear friends Juha and Oili! Thanks for an amazing wedding party! All the best to you both!

Now that the weather seems to start cooling down I've injured my both middle fingers... Right worse than left. Board climbing isn't good for you if you do too much of it. Holds are very similar all the time. I think that's the reason why I got injured fingers. Well live and learn. Although I think I should have learned all ready...

Anyhow, here is a video of Gluteus Maximus. F.A was done by Mika Hinkkanen. Think it was 1st of November 2007? Boulder is quite "of the beaten track" so it doesn't get much traffic. Although it's really worth your while. It consists 3 hard moves and shares the top out with 'Pacman'. Climbing is very similar to this Font problem called 'Hibernatus gauhe'. Although for me Gluteus Maximus felt a tad harder. Conditions weren't prime though.

TIA

TIA = This is Africa.


Roadcrew.

Rock: Quartzite. Not all good quality, but there is a LOT of it to choose from. And it varies in different areas.

Texture: Exactly the same as Grit stone but with more holds. With pebbles and all.

Color: Orange / Gray.


Teemu Uusi-maahi sending 'Rhino'.

Climbing: From mindless jug hauls to best climbs that you can imaging. Harder ones being better ones (most of the time).

Fact: There is more jugs than anywhere I've seen before. Still maybe not for beginners. Most of the blocks are just too easy to be climbed on.

Amount: Lot of rock, still not very developed (hope it stays that way).

Approach: Mostly long and treacherous walks (20mins being average). Mostly gravel road, but sometimes you need to do actual climbing to get where you are going (not too nice when its wet)... It's not an 'easy' area to be in like Font or Swiss.

Permits: Needed for every area (about 3€ a day per person). Hard to get and find out how the whole thing works...

Rules: Leave no trace, walk on existing paths, pick your garbage (finger tape is also garbage). Clear tick marks (so the same as any were esle)!

Guide: Coming... (some info in the web). Locals are making one.


Roadside.

Senery: Beautiful!

Wildlife: Yes and some poisonous! Didn't see any snakes though. Apparently you have about 2hours to get to hospital if one bites. It will be hard in that terrain. Good thing is that they mostly hibernate in winter time. Baboons are quite scary too.

Weather: Could be rainy. We where lucky though. Only two days of rain. It was mostly hot around 27celsius. Had some cold weather too. Actually saw some snow up on the mountains! If you are staying in a campsite, you will most likely need warm clothing.

Season: Our summer.

People: Very friendly. Still stay a way from certain areas.

Bankcards: Work. Need actual cash to get petrol though. For permits too.


Teemu Uusi-maahi sending 'John Denver'.

Eats and Drink: Olifanti, Nancy's tea house, Kelder. All of them good! Cheep too!

Shopping: For grosery Spar in Clanwiliam etc.

Stay: Many different. From houses to campping. We stayed in De Pachys campsite. Can recommed.

Car: Needed. Preferably 4x4. Roads tend to be quite bad in climbing areas. With heavy rain there will be hard river crossings to do.


Ville Kurru warming up in Plateu area.

London epic

We had a pit of an epic, when coming back from Rocklands. Our transit in LHR was about 9 hours coming from Cape Town. So we decided to go sightseeing London. Of course not taking the underground but only the very nessesery. We ended up walking +15 km with heavy bags. Almost missing the flight because someone got hit and killed by the train so the tracks got closed and we ended up running like headless chicken in a middle of nowhere trying to find a cab or right bus line. When in airport we got stuck in security check behind Serrano family form Spain who didn't know that tooth paste etc is actually considered as liquids... So we just barely made the flight.


Teemu having no clue where to go.


Well Paddington sounded good.




London Eye and Big Ben.


Kids playing around near Tower Bridge.


A tourist.


Dunno what the hell that was... Long walk though. Had to go see. Apparently its called ' The Gherkin or Swiss re'.
Koko näy

Teemu and mates.

Vihersalo

Two problems from Vihersalo. Which is small area near Jyväskylä with good rock quality. A bit like Vaasa actually. Some info at 27crags.com. If you decide to visit this area, please behave! There are houses just next to boulders.

Don't know the name of that first problem? So if someone could enlighten me please?

Huhu

There was a rumor spreading amongst Jyväskylä climbers (4 of us...) about a cool new block with a 45dec overhang. Finally we got info of the location of this boulder called Huhu! Have to say that it's an amazing problem!



Thanks for Jani Askolin for all the hard work!