Tuesday, April 28, 2009
Sunday, April 19, 2009
77
"Choose Fontainebleau. Choose bad weather and slow drying rock. Choose polished, pof blackened holds. Choose trashed problems and grotesque chipping. Choose crags overcrowded with greasy handed weekender Parisiens and legions of ubiquitous Yanks. Choose grumpy old locals chastising everyone (except the French, that is) for using chalk. Choose unsafe car parks (just like at home) and obscenely expensive, yet utterly lifeless bars. Choose Calvaire, that slimy hole in the ground o a wet weekend day with 20 or 30 other people huddled beneath it's partial cover, wondering what the hell you are doing so far from home yet so far from paradise..." - Simon Panton, Bouldering Scene, Climber may 2002.
Still we chose to choose it. We absolutely love it there. We have so many good friends out there. Every time it feels like coming home (in a good way)... I don't think much of that text is true. Only once have we been told of for using chalk and I think they where weekend Parisians. Francois ( THE local hero) got quite pissed of about us getting told of. One of the 'Bleausards' actually said to me that 'pof is shit' when I was about to smack it on a foothold!
Last time and last boulder that I've climbed in Font was when I topped out 'Big Dragon'. After that it kinda felt that I'd had enough of Font for a while. After visiting Swiss/ Italy / Austria four times in a row we felt that maybe it's time to go back to cradle of movement. It's not like the climbing can get any better than in Font, but it's maybe not that important any more as seeing your friends first time for a long while.
Any how, here is a short video of our trip to Font. I was supposed to do a lot of filming, but I got lazy and didn't do much of that. Climbing is too much fun to be bothered with camera.
Thanks to all friends (old and new) for such a nice holiday! Hope to see you all in not so distant future!
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